Journey Day 396 | CDT Day 59
8/12/87
Up slow on cooold, frosty morning at my horse-shit appointed site in North Fork Meadows. The rodent? that rummaged all night left no traces, but cowbells I sought to escape last night ring even after I awaken.
Out of tent, usual putting together of pack, but frozen hands make this stressful. Almost leave a hanging rope, do leave without breakfast, choosing to walk to a sunny breakfast spot. Crisp and clear. Walking along multi-track trail, pass horsepacker and dog probably looking for a mule I find in the trail about a half-mile later, its back feet free, but its front bound. Pass cautiously, soon at junction, choose Soda Fork and soon have to ford the Buffalo River again, water freezing my feet and ankles.
On the other side despite a pushy current, I'm up again and push through Soda Fork Canyon, along the bank to a spot where an apparent spring is dripping down. Take long break in sun on red rocks and dirt, check map, dry feet, eat raviolinis left over and ramen with milk, plus dates. Push on briskly despite uphills in forest mixed with stream hops. Soon at Nowlin Meadows junction, which I take and soon ford the Soda Fork, pass a guardhouse and climb toward Nowlin Meadows. Nice views of Soda Mountain, then Smokehouse. Come into the meadow, great views of Bear Cub Peak before coming to a viewpoint where I take a late lunch. A second group of horsepackers is coming up as I struggle to set up a photo of me with Bear Cub Peak. Push on soon, downhill, racing the clock to Brooks Lake. Pass on falls, ford North Fork of the Buffalo River for the last time and begin the climb to Cub Creek Pass.
Good hump to ridge where see Breccia Peak with spots of snow, a long massif to the southwest and the Divide's rugged cliffs to the southeast.
Down to Cub Creek for cold, wet ford. Sit too long on the other side to change film, hustle back up for warmth and finish. Another good climb through woods to Cub Creek Pass, stop at the origin of the creek to fill up, then push on out of the Teton Wilderness, God's country in spite of the horseshit. Almost immediately at Upper Brooks Lake, a sign for sore knees and cold feet. Find Wolf's spot with cliffs on both sides, pitch and cook quickly before retreat into my tent to update by flashlight.