Journey Day 373 | CDT Day 36

Severe weather hardened the day in Montana

7/17/87

Rain begins about daybreak. It continues all day and is now pattering down ominously on my tent roof.

As it ends, it began. Unsure of what the day's first moves should be, I cast a few looks outside. All I see is fog, rain and Ed moving about. Also snow on the ridge we're to climb. After some discourse from inside our tents, I abandon attempts at group consensus and hike out after packing inside my tent, then dismantling its pleasing shelter.

Up to the pass, I'm in rain paints with only a little sweat. Actually this is almost pleasing, due to the chill, weather conditions. No views, so down I go, hoofing into the next valley. Only break long enough to dump near Slate Rock Creek. Then onward to Warren Lake, after a steep climb that strains my back.

Try to wait, look for deer, etc. Eat gorp, drink water to sustain. But cold sends me on. Luckily the group shows, we talk, I agree to wait at Rainbow for condition update. Freezing, so onward.

Rain picks up, chill heightens as I climb, then descend through forest, burnt forest to junction I feared I'd passed. Mellow climb to meadow. I manage to lose trail compounding my frenzy. Way off on mileage measurement, expect second pond to be Rainbow. It's not, there's more hiking to the right lake.

Try to take a break, eat, drink. Check lake for life. Expect others because of fresh horse dung in the trail. No sign of people, so yell, get a response, hike back looking for others, give up, walk back, yell, notice others across the lake. Hike on after message in the mud, come upon horse camp. Share fire, talk until others appear. Coffee from Missoulans, one owns the Sportsman's Surplus, the other Busted Ass Ranch, specializing in burros. We talk gear, hiking, burros.

Leave fire drier, but climb through snow (on July 17) up to pass. Nearly white-out back to lake. Climb to pass, down on muddy trail finally leading to Johnson Lake, pass couple I originally saw fishing across Rainbow Lake camping, reach spot rancher described, pick spot with tree cover and pitch, racing against loss of dexterity, despite a moment of sun.

Tent up, gear inside, I peel off wet layers, inside bag until warm enough to be hungry enough to get cooking water. Back to tent, cook dinner, pancakes and coffee despite temperamental stove. Try to organize soggy gear, then bring pack into vestibule and update. A little reading should end this rough day. Climbs, rain, chill - truly a nasty one.