Journey Day 357 | CDT Day 20
The big sky of Montana in 1987.
7/1/87
We begin our second month on the trail in a motel room at the Super 8 in Helena, MT. Snoring from Laurie and Carl - who also smells - keeps me up through the night, and Leonard and Laurie are up early to right the tooth problems.
I decide to get up and eat. Hit Country Kitchen. Others show up, we enjoy meal, discuss topics including AIDS. Then they're off to dentist, we head back to room. I snowseal boots, watch the tube and read USA Today. Carl panics, believing he's lost I.O.U.'s, he finds on ledge in the room. Also enjoy dip in the pool (despite father and son volleyball, daughter's inanities for attention).
Chilling out, writing letter to Keith when Leonard and Laurie return with $25 and success with tooth problems. So we move toward departure. Our "chauffeur" calls and we meet with her outside hotel and gorge ourselves at pizza plus buffet. After an unsuccessful insurance stop and cruise through drugstore (no sunscreen or glasses, but this pad), same poor luck at Bob Ward's - more a sportsman's store than a backpack shop.
So we ride back to Lincoln in enclosed flatbed, writing between bumps. Dropped at post office, we pick up boxes, my only letter forwarded Mom note from East Glacier. Organize, mail back first maps, guidebook, talk with locals. Meet Kavanaughs, brothers from Saverna Park, Maryland, who've had quite an adventure themselves.
Others head to campground, I write out last journal. Michael Dey, an old forester bends my ear with tales of his younger days and local lore. I realize I've missed much of this with our group set-up. Dey leaves, I finish writing, wander to where "chauffeur" has my camera. Then a search for white gas leads me to a ranger who briefs us on the route ahead as he repairs a washer jammed by a stuff sack in his entrepreneurial quest.
He gives me fuel, tells me how laundry is mentally healthy for him, of his envy for our trip. Eventually I leave after meeting his wife.
At campsite, find Carl and Kavanaughs. Adkinses at hotel for Leonard's birthday. Leave gear after comparing tales. They've been on the trail since May 21. Travails included three days on Triple Divide Pass, another white out, lost pack thanks to Greyhound.
Met "original Grizzly Adams" while in Essex awaiting food that never showed. Now they're in Lincoln with 40 cents.
At cafe, I treat Leonard to birthday meal, drink big bottle of wine, great waitress brings Leonard a pie with a candle and we embarrass him by singing "Happy Birthday" in a public place.
Kavanaughs show up, more talk, more wine. Close up shop. Call Mom, it's midnight. Call Washington Post, checks to be sent. Joe Mackall (who helped me get Post job I quit for this hike) working in Lorain, Ohio, for local Journal.
At camp, more talk with Kavanaughs, crash. Signed what may be the only CDT register, including entries by Walking Jim Stoltz, Mugs and Jo Kneczak, who winter hiked the trail. Hopefully we'll measure up...
