Journey Day 509 | CDT Day 172

A shortage of sun in the Gila River Canyon kept me hiking in my long johns.

12/3/87

Up in a freeze, hike away from nice camp. More frozen fords. Everything from straight wades to scrambling across frozen top, cracks hurrying the pace. One time I have to break steps in marginal ice, gravitating between solid and liquid states. Step by step in an awfully cold river. Still views are excellent: wild cliffs, caves, blue skies, but a shortage of sun.

Beavers were busy on trees along the Gila River.

Hike up on three raccoons about a beaver dam. They're unaware of me 'til I'm almost upon them. Push on to the Meadows, where signs talk of places not on the map, Double Spring and Little Bear Canyon. A half mile later, signs have the same names in a different order. I find myself on a trail heading steeply out of the canyon, river irritatingly below. So I hike back down out of the sun again.

The afternoon is scenic, including excellent unmarked hot springs east of the river, noted because overflow rushes down a ridge to the river. I cross, wondering its source, possibly it's my trail. But no, it's a second wrong turn, more unnecessary fords freeze my toes. Two near dunkings, but I stay dry below the elbows used as third legs when I'm toppling. The only break I take all afternoon is a quickie for gorp.

The hot springs, mellowing of canyon walls, make me think I'm near the end, but darkness convinces me to camp. I pitch in failing daylight, cook in dark and read until my flashlight dies, switching once to finish the chapter.