Journey Day 465 | CDT Day 128

At times, I felt alone in the snowy San Juans.

10/20/87

Amazingly warm night at campsite by ponds on the Divide, 11,900 feet in elevation, in a snow-indented spot. Go through frozen routine, freeing frozen socks from boots and donning, wet but warm footwear that spent the night under my knees inside my sleeping bag. Sun on my spot as I emerge and free tent stakes with effort. Start bucking snow again after passing wordless sign junction. Buck about a mile, slow going, snow up to knee deep, questionable underlyings. Slip down some. After ascent, stop with realization at least a day of this lies ahead. Turn back and leave the Divide, descending along Williams Creek.

Tough going on the Divide sent me to lower ground.

Quickly out of the snow, replaced by mud churned by horses as the torment over my decision begins. Are you a quitter? I wonder. But tiredness overcomes my guilt, and I head into the forest. Once I walk in a circle, deep in thought. Stop to analyze the map, no good routes. So I hike on down, a long grind.

Pass hunters camp - stock, but no people. A mule across the trail. On break on trailside log, a hunter walks by, apparently unaware of locale or even vicinity. Hike down, cross creek. Climb perplexes, I turn back, then back again, three times fording creek widened by active snowmelt.

Hike on, hunters tell me the time, 3 1/2 miles still to the trailhead. Sails further deflated. Breaking at a seep across the trail when David Cordray, an outfitter and hairstylist, rides up with a Texas rancher. We talk, he offers me a ride to Pagosa Springs, lodging in a guest cabin. I can't refuse when the alternative is a 30-mile road walk to town or return to the snow-engorged Divide.

So push final miles, passing pedestrian Amarillo man hunting and strolling. Ride to the base camp, then into town talking gear, life, trail, etc. At house, meet his pretty wife Jane, with civilized problems for David. I leave them for the cabin, shower. Enjoy radio, warmth of stove after excellent shower. Cooking up pasta when David invites me to dinner. I decline, but walk up to meet his daughter Jennifer, who asks for my autograph. She goes to bed, Jane and David ask me about the trip. We watch maudlin TV, munch cookies. She's from Albuquerque, his second wife. She's at school, they're working to make ends meet. Back to my cabin, read more of Irving Stone's Taming of the West, while warm in comfortable bed. Eventually crash.