Journey Day 447 | CDT Day 110
The view from above Twin Lakes, Colorado, October 1987.
10/2/87
Just another frozen morning. I'm resigned to a supply route to Twin Lakes, so hike on, more views through the trees to Mt. Elbert and Mt. Massive. Also creeks to cross. Drop out of the Mt. Massive Wilderness, continue on the Colorado Trail. Ross Blair bids good morning and I talk long with this Humble, Texas-Leadville resident. He's so effusive in his praise. But we part, I hike on, over side ridge, pass the Elbert Trailhead, roads. Beautiful walk through hallway of aspen, their fallen leaves a carpet I crunch through with resolve.
Pass active mine claim, then off the Colorado Trail, on LT100 path for 100-mile run. Nice trail, switchbacking me down to road, impatiently I hike along, noting Twin Lakes, the village below.
Another vista as I headed into Twin Lakes in October 1987.
Soon down and hit store-post office, run by a nice couple. Meet John, cook at the Nordic Inn. No one has panacea route back to the Divide. Buy, enjoy box from Austin Kennedy (an A.T. friend). Those A.T. guys sure hold up their end. Manager talks me into staying at the inn, abandon thoughts of calling Ross Blair of Leadville.
Over to the inn, talk more with John, a climber. Nirvana shower, organize all my food for 75 miles to include a visit to Tin Cup. A nice selection. Update for period since the reservoir and the Callahans in feather bed, so very civilized.
Letters penned, journal recollected. Read about harlot Annie who reportedly conducted her business in my room at the inn, opened in 1879. Until two years ago, it was the Inn of the Black Wolf where the proprietor also raised lobos negros. Talk with John, then a woman from N.J. about European travel, the Pine Barrens of N.J. Lake Constance in Germany her favorite spot.
She knits, I take in books stacked high, nordic look. Also talk with John until he drifts off to make a call. Get him to cook beef ruflavun, rolled beef flanks stuffed with vegetables, etc. A special German tart. Dark and light German beers.
Write notes, the place explodes with life as customers appear suddenly as I read the newspaper, eat and drink. Back to the front to talk with the owner. Nice, friendly talk. I tell her of the value of such kindness to a wayward traveler.
John Prine's Sabu begins a night of drinking and listening to tunes with Tom. Talk of Tomato Wars pitting Coloradoans and Texans in a toss of overripe fruit, followed by a bash at the inn. Also a Hookers' Ball. Hiking, climbing, traveling to New Orleans with a wolf loose in the back, biting he and a woman in the car eight times. Life in the Deep South, turtles. Write cards, listen to tunes. Move to fireplace where next phase soon begins. Biker and two women appear to join us. Talk of drugs, sex and rock 'n roll. New York City with aged juvenile delinquent. Night ends with the ringing of the desk bell, calling it all to a halt. We all crash easily.
